Workshop FAQ

Answers to the most commonly asked questions. Still have a question? Email me at lisa@lisazolandzpottery.com

TL;DR version

  • Silver nitrate stains everything, clothes might get stained
  • These glazes run. You must have cookies or catch trays
  • Do your liner glaze application before the workshop to minimize pinholes
  • Cone 6 clay- but avoid black clays. Bmix & Standard 182 are more likely to pinhole

 

Luster glazes are highly variable in their own right, add in the new variables of different kilns, clay bodies, application...well lets just say this is going to be one big fun experiment. Hopefully we get fantastic results, but there are no guarantees in ceramics! You should bring pieces that reflect the sort of work you like to make, but maybe not a piece that you poured your heart, soul and countless hours into. 

What should I wear?

For our glazing day (first day) wear clothing/shoes you don't mind getting stained. Silver nitrate stains everything! Gloves will be provided, but you might want to bring something with long sleeves for glazing. On the final day there's some potential for mess with the finish grinding we will do. Usual safety stuff of closed toe shoes and long hair pulled back applies throughout the workshop.

What should I bring with me?

Bisqued pieces to glaze (see registration for size/quantity)

Matching riser/catch tray or cookies for each piece

Something to take notes on/with

Favorite brush if you have one- warning it may get stained. We will provide brushes.

How will we be applying glazes?

We will be brushing the glazes. Most of the time we won't have the volume of glaze needed for dipping. 

What clay body should I use?

Most cone 6 clay bodies will be fine. No low fire clay, we will be firing to cone 6! A smooth white stoneware or porcelain would be my first choice. I use a grolleg porcelain from Standard- #365. Laguna's #65 has worked well for me. Unfortunately Laguna Bmix5 and Standard's 182 seem highly likely to blister with luster. Black clays like Standard 266 and Laguna's B3 are also likely to blister. If you bring some test tiles we can try to fit them into the firing if there is room.

Should my work be bisque fired?

Yes! Bisque your pieces (and cookies, risers/catch trays) to your normal bisque temperature. Personally I usually bisque to cone 08 or 06, but do what you normally do.

Do these glazes run?

Yes! Some run more than others, but for the sake of the studio's kiln shelves, EVERYTHING must be fired on a catch tray/cookie with raised edges. We will have wadding available at the workshop, but for extra insurance, I recommend making a riser and catch tray like is done with crystalline glazes.

Should I use a riser and catch tray instead of wadding?

Its up to you, but the nice thing is, if you prepare for running this way, you get a nice thin coat of glaze at the foot instead of a big thick drip. 

How do I make a crystalline style riser and catch tray?

Here's a video of how I make mine- it's sort of like a candlestick holder. The diameter of the ring should be the same size or a tiny bit smaller than the foot, never larger than the foot. This piece should be bisqued along with your pot. At the workshop we will do some diamond disc grinding and glue the two pieces together. 

Some people like to make their risers and catch trays as 2 separate pieces. Throw or slab a catch tray with raised sides plus throw a cone than you can cut into 1-2" rings once its leather hard.

 

How many pieces can I bring to fire?

Refer to the registration information at the hosting studio.

What sort of forms look nice with luster?

The sky's the limit! Smooth, textured, faceted- whatever you'd like. Just be sure to keep the size to the limits of the hosting studio.

Are luster glazes food safe?

By legal definition in the USA, yes, but they're not dinnerware appropriate. They are NOT durable glazes. I recommend using a liner glaze on any food contact surface.

Liner glaze all your work before the workshop!

Plan on glazing the interior/less visible surface of your work prior to the workshop. There's a few reasons for this:

  • Can use a durable and dinnerware appropriate glaze for functional items
  • Silver nitrate/luster glaze is expensive so its a bit wasteful to apply it to areas you won't see, and
  • Less pinholing occurs when you glaze the interior and exterior at least a day apart (water logging and particle packing issues).
  • The host studio isn't planning on having other glazes available for you to use.

There's a bit of fuming that occurs with luster glazes and I find white and clear glazes come out yellowed. You may want to choose a dark liner glaze to hide this effect.